NGO Links H&M and Zara to 44% Surge in Deforestation in Brazil’s Cerrado
Clothing manufacturers supplying H&M and Zara are reportedly sourcing cotton associated with significant environmental degradation and land-grabbing in Brazil’s Cerrado, a region recognized for its biodiversity. Research conducted by the nonprofit organization Earthsight reveals alarming trends in deforestation within this critical ecosystem.
Rising Deforestation Rates in the Cerrado
While international attention has predominantly focused on the environmental impacts of beef and soy production in the Amazon, deforestation alerts in the less-publicized Cerrado savannah have surged by 44% in 2023, according to data from Brazil’s National Institute for Space Research (INPE). This increase highlights a growing concern as Brazil aims to establish itself as the world’s leading cotton exporter.
The Earthsight investigation identifies cotton as a significant contributor to this environmental crisis. The report emphasizes that corporations and consumers in Europe and North America are inadvertently fueling this destruction—not through their dietary choices, but through their clothing purchases.
Supply Chain Connections
Researchers traced thousands of shipment records linking two cotton producers accused of land-grabbing and illegal deforestation in the Cerrado to Asian manufacturers supplying garments to H&M and Zara. These manufacturers are primarily located in countries such as Bangladesh and Indonesia.
The report critiques the Better Cotton initiative, a sustainability standard used by these fashion brands, labeling it “fundamentally flawed.” It asserts that this certification fails to guarantee that consumers are not purchasing cotton from Brazilian farms implicated in environmental violations. The Better Cotton initiative claims to cover 22% of global cotton production, certifying producers who meet its sustainability and labor standards.
Corporate Responses to Allegations
In response to the findings, H&M characterized the initial results as “highly concerning” and has requested a third-party investigation from Better Cotton. A spokesperson for Better Cotton indicated that the organization is still analyzing the findings.
Inditex, the parent company of Zara, stated that Better Cotton “strictly prohibits” practices such as land-grabbing and deforestation. The company expressed its commitment to closely monitor the investigation’s outcomes.
The Cotton Boom in the Cerrado
Brazil’s cotton exports have experienced remarkable growth over the past decade, largely driven by increased production in the Cerrado. This region has lost approximately half of its natural vegetation to agricultural expansion, with regulatory measures on deforestation being less stringent than those in the Amazon.
Covering an area larger than Mexico, the Cerrado is home to vital ecosystems that play a crucial role in carbon absorption and storage. It also harbors endangered species such as the maned wolf and giant anteater. Furthermore, the region serves as a critical water source for much of South America. However, the proliferation of water-intensive crops threatens the water supplies of traditional communities, displacing them from grazing lands they have relied on for generations.
Mauricio Correia Silva, a research consultant at the Lawyers Association in Defense of Rural Workers in Bahia, noted that communities have lost access to plateaus that once provided natural pastures for their cattle.
Focus on the Matopiba Region
The Matopiba region, which includes parts of Bahia, is at the center of this agricultural expansion and the focus of Earthsight’s research. Data from the IPAM environmental institute indicates that three-quarters of the vegetation loss in the Cerrado during 2023 occurred in Matopiba, which is home to the Agronegocio Estrondo estate, primarily engaged in cotton, soy, and corn production.
The Estrondo estate has been expanding into untouched areas closer to local communities and has previously established armed checkpoints to limit residents’ movements and activities. The estate is currently contesting land-grabbing charges filed by Bahia’s attorney general. Since 2004, two of its management companies have faced fines totaling 125 million reais (approximately $26 million) for unauthorized land clearance.
Estrondo maintains that its operations comply with Brazilian environmental laws and that it is contesting the fines, with around 50 million reais (about $9.9 million) already canceled. The estate claims that its territory has been legally constituted for over 40 years, supported by notary and government records. However, it is also pursuing a legal agreement regarding the transfer of titles for a portion of the estate claimed by local communities.
Villagers in the vicinity have long reported grievances regarding abuses as farmland encroaches on their traditional grazing areas, forcing them to restrict livestock to the well-preserved riverbanks where they reside.
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Published on 2024-04-11 11:17:00 • By the Editorial Desk
