Lee and Garnbret Capture World Title Leads

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Lee Dohyun Stands Tall in Seoul: A Historic Win at the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2025

On the seventh day of the IFSC Climbing and Para Climbing World Championships 2025, the atmosphere in Seoul was electric as local favorite Lee Dohyun captured the men’s Lead title. This marked not only his first world title but also a momentous occasion for South Korea, as it was the nation’s first-ever men’s World Championships medal in the Lead discipline.

A Thrilling Climb

Lee demonstrated exceptional skill and determination as he climbed to hold 43+. As he was lowered from the wall, he glanced at the scoreboard, realizing he was in the top position. Cheers erupted from the enthusiastic crowd, but with France’s Sam Avezou still to compete, a mix of hope and anxiety filled the air. When Avezou fell at hold 34+, Lee’s victory was sealed, and disbelief turned to jubilant celebration.

Reflecting on his achievement, Lee expressed, “I feel amazing. It’s my dream to win a World Championship, and it has come true. I’m lost for words.” The presence of his parents and friends made the victory even more meaningful, emphasizing the emotional weight of the moment.

A Journey Through Disciplines

Although Lee had medals in Boulder from previous championships, Lead climbing was where it all began for him. “When I was young I was a Lead climber,” he noted, admitting that while his success in Boulder prompted a shift, he has a deep affection for both disciplines.

When asked about his chances for a double victory in Seoul, he stated, “I’m not sure about winning another medal in Boulder, but I am confident in my Boulder, so I will just do my best.”

Podium Finishes

Lee’s victory came after edging out Japan’s Yoshida Satone, who took silver with an equally impressive climb to hold 43+, but Lee’s semi-final performance secured him the gold. Joining Lee and Yoshida on the podium was fellow Japanese climber Homma Taisei, who captured bronze with a climb to hold 42+. This was a historic moment for all three athletes, as it was their first World Championships medal in Lead.

Fifth place went to another Japanese athlete, Neo Suzuki, who reached hold 39+, while Avezou finished in sixth. Former world champion Jakob Schubert ended up in seventh place after a disappointing foot slip on hold 34, closely followed by Italy’s Giovanni Placci, who participated in his first-ever world-level final.

Garnbret’s Dazzling Performance

On the women’s side, Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret added a stunning chapter to her legacy by securing her third women’s Lead gold. Garnbret became the only climber to reach the top in the women’s final, but her road to victory was almost thwarted by a nervous slip that momentarily made the crowd gasp. She shared her panic: “I thought I was gone to be honest. I was trying to clip, and the right hold was super slippery.” Her incredible composure during that moment turned the tide.

After her victory, Garnbret commented, “This one feels extra special,” highlighting the pressures she faced leading up to the competition and her relief in achieving success amidst high expectations.

Rising Stars from Slovenia

Sharing the podium with Garnbret was fellow Slovenian Rosa Rekar, who captured silver with a climb to hold 45. Rekar’s triumph follows her youth world title from 2024, solidifying her status as a formidable force in the sport. Meanwhile, South Korea’s Seo Chaehyun clinched bronze, reaching hold 44+, marking her third medal at the World Championships and further delighting the home crowd.

Finishing fourth was Great Britain’s Erin McNeice, who climbed to hold 44, while USA’s Annie Sanders and France’s Zélia Avezou took fifth and sixth, respectively. The rest of the top eight was rounded out by Slovenia’s Lucka Rakovec and Austria’s Flora Oblasser.

The Excitement Continues

As the dust settles on the Lead events, attention shifts to the Boulder competitions slated for the last two days of the championships. With Garnbret aiming for another gold and Lee expressing optimism about his Boulder performance, the excitement is palpable among athletes and fans alike.

The IFSC Climbing World Championships is a showcase of incredible talent, passion, and dedication. Updates and results continue to flow as the competitions progress, with the world watching in anticipation.

For detailed results of the men’s and women’s Lead events, you can check the official IFSC website. Stay tuned for recommendations on the Boulder competitions as the championships unfold further.

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