Zegna’s First S/S 2026 Collection Show: A Dubai Oasis
An Unforgettable Setting
On a sweltering 39-degree day in Dubai, Zegna brought a breath of fresh air to the city’s vibrant fashion scene by staging its S/S 2026 collection at the Janus Rostock-designed Opera House. This event marked a significant shift for the iconic menswear brand, being its very first show outside Italy. It also served as the unofficial launch of menswear month, preceding notable fashion events like Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris.
Villa Zegna: An Immersive Experience
The installation, dubbed ‘Villa Zegna,’ is far more than just a runway; it’s an experiential homage to nature and architecture. The floor mimics the sandy landscapes of Dubai, while the design draws inspiration from Ermenegildo Zegna’s Trivero mansion, the brand’s Italian roots. This captivating mise-en-scène invites guests into Zegna’s world, allowing them to explore the beauty of the brand’s heritage alongside contemporary innovations.
A Natural Soundscape
As guests arrived, they were serenaded by a unique soundscape featuring birdsong recorded at Oasi Zegna. This luxurious national park, home to the first wool mill established by the house in 1910, underscores Zegna’s commitment to sustainability and nature. The company has planted over 500,000 trees in the area, embodying the founder’s vision and ethos of harmony between fashion and the environment.
The Collection: Simplicity Meets Luxury
Artistic director Alessandro Sartori designed the collection with a focus on ease and comfort, a hallmark of his tenure at Zegna. The garments feature clever layering and lightweight materials, such as gently crumpled blazers and collarless shirts inspired by the Indian Nehru jacket. The overall mood is one of relaxed sophistication, making it ideal for the discerning modern man.
Innovative Fabrics and Textures
The fabric story is equally compelling, showcasing a variety of luxurious textiles including linen, leather, and silk. A standout creation is a suit crafted from a lightweight silk that weighs only 300 grams, perfect for the traveler. This emphasis on functionality runs through the collection, as seen in the crease-effect materials that evoke the feeling of being freshly retrieved from a suitcase.
Captivating Color Palette
What truly captivates is Sartori’s masterful use of color. The palette features evocatively named shades like burro di montagna, olio, cognac, and barolo, each designed to reflect the sun-bleached hues of Dubai’s landscape. Fabrics appear gently faded, as though the intensity of the Dubai sun had left an indelible mark, taking the concept of “wear” to a whole new level.
An Intuitive Approach to Design
Sartori articulates the essence of the collection by referencing a spontaneous image of clothing casually draped over a chair, hinting at a lifestyle that embraces spontaneity. This layering of thought intricately marries casual elegance with the structured refinement often expected from luxury menswear.
The Business of Fashion
Zegna’s decision to host this show in Dubai is a strategic one, underscoring its commitment to the Middle Eastern market, where the brand has established a significant presence. With a boutique in the Dubai Mall—a major global shopping destination—Zegna aims to capitalize on the city’s immense foot traffic and growing interest in luxury goods. According to Gildo Zegna, the chairman and CEO, the region is becoming a vital hub for the brand’s global strategy.
Look and Learn
For a full week following the show, visitors can marvel at the ‘Villa Zegna’ installation at Dubai Opera. This unique opportunity allows high-spending clients in the region to immerse themselves in the brand’s narrative, from Ermenegildo Zegna’s storied past to contemporary creative expressions. The experience offers a chance to not just view but also pre-order pieces directly inspired by the runway—truly bridging the gap between art and commerce in the realm of high fashion.
Whether you’re drawn to Zegna for its rich heritage or its innovative vision, the S/S 2026 collection and its immersive presentation in Dubai offer a compelling invitation to experience the future of luxury menswear in a uniquely captivating way.
