The Humble Potato in Calcutta Biryani
A Royal Introduction to Biryani
The love affair between potatoes and biryani traces back to the opulent kitchens of the Mughal Empire, where this iconic dish first found its way to India. Traditionally a protein-and-rice dish, biryani flourished as the Mughals transported their culinary delights across the subcontinent. The journey took a transformative turn when Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, the last king of Awadh, was exiled to Kolkata. He brought his culinary treasures with him, including the luxury of biryani.
However, the story of the potato’s entry into this royal dish is a tale of necessity. During difficult times when meat was scarce, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah had to innovate. He introduced the humble potato to the biryani, creating a nostalgia-inducing dish that resonated deeply with the local palate.
The Birth of Aminia
Fast forward to 1929, and we find a new chapter in the story of Calcutta biryani unfolding. Abdul Rahim, a former soldier who had deserted the British Army, was searching for a way to make ends meet. With keen insight, he caught the tantalizing aromas of this potato-infused biryani. Recognizing its potential, he established Aminia, a restaurant that would bring this adapted dish to the masses. Kabir Azhar, the great-great-grandson of Abdul Rahim, proudly notes, “We were the first to commercially sell this biryani.”
A Flavorful Legacy in Dubai
Today, Aminia continues to be synonymous with this legacy, not just in India but also in Dubai. The two branches in Karama and Dubai Production City are adorned with decor that reflects its rich heritage. The walls feature vintage menus, paintings of Kolkata’s bustling scenes, and photographs of patrons like cricketing legend Sachin Tendulkar. Interestingly, the New Market branch in Kolkata still uses traditional coal-fired stoves, maintaining a connection to its roots.
Kabir explains that their biryani’s flavor comes from a unique spice mix, unchanged for decades. This blend remains lighter and distinct from its Awadhi counterpart, catering to local preferences for milder, sweeter dishes. Additionally, the restaurant has crafted specific offerings for different palates, such as the Aminia special curry, a light stew that includes egg, vegetables, and meat.
Catering to a Diverse Audience
As Aminia gained popularity in India, the vision of an international presence grew within the family. Kabir reflects on his father’s dreams of establishing a brand in Dubai, a city with a significant Indian population and a welcoming business environment. “Dubai is the easiest and best place to open a restaurant,” he remarks. The flavors resonate well here, appealing not just to Indian expatriates but also to a broader Middle Eastern audience.
To adapt to the local culinary landscape, Kabir and his brother Asher Ather have refreshed the menu. While remaining loyal to traditional recipes, they’ve also introduced new dishes, including the delicious dum biryani and chicken tikka butter masala. Recognizing the popularity of grilled and fried items in the region, they have expanded their kebab offerings as well.
Future Aspirations
With the successful launch in Dubai, the Azhar brothers have their sights set on further expansion. “Dubai is kind of a gateway to the entire Middle East,” Kabir shares. While they aim to broaden their reach, their initial focus remains on understanding local preferences and refining their flavors to cater to the audience.
Experience the Original Biryani
Whether you’re yearning for a taste of a time-honored recipe or simply craving that comforting combination of spiced potato, rice, and meat, Aminia promises an authentic experience. With a rich history woven into every dish, it stands as a testament to the evolving culinary story of biryani, where humble origins meet culinary excellence.
