The Climbers’ Challenge: Naila Kiani’s Journey to the Summit

A Competitive Drive in Mountaineering

In the heart of the mountaineering world, fierce competition exists among elite climbers. Recently, this rivalry influenced Naila Kiani, a Dubai-based climber, as she sought to become the first Pakistani woman to conquer all 14 of the world’s highest peaks. The allure of this monumental achievement became overshadowed by tragic events during her climbs, prompting Kiani to reflect deeply on her ambitions.

A Remarkable Background

Kiani, a former banker, turned her life towards the mountains, fueled by a desire to push her limits. As she pursued her passion for climbing, she accumulated impressive summits. However, the journey has not been without its challenges. After successfully topping 11 mountains in 2023, she faced an unimaginable setback during a competitive ascent of Shishapangma.

The Shishapangma Incident

On October 7, 2022, tragedy struck when an avalanche at 7,800 meters claimed the lives of four climbers, including two American women, Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidlo, who were racing to beat records. Their Sherpa guides, Migmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama, also lost their lives in the catastrophe. This incident cast a long shadow over the climbing community and deeply affected Kiani.

Reflecting on the toxic competition that propelled climbers to prioritize goals over safety, Kiani noted, “At the time of the accident, there was a toxic competition among climbers to achieve their goals, but the mountain wasn’t ready.” This critical insight underlines the importance of respect for the mountain and its unpredictability.

A Moment of Reflection

The fatalities on Shishapangma caused Kiani to reconsider her aspirations. The competitive landscape of mountaineering appeared increasingly perilous, and the pursuit of records overshadowed the inherent risks of high-altitude climbing. In an emotional response to the disaster, she admitted to feeling disheartened and considered stepping back entirely from her ambitious challenge.

“After everything that happened, I nearly gave up,” she confessed, highlighting the emotional toll such experiences can take on climbers.

Regaining Focus

Despite these challenges, Kiani found solace and renewed purpose in her passion. With determination, she refocused her goals and prepared to tackle Mount Kanchenjunga, the third-highest peak at 8,586 meters. In May 2023, Kiani embarked on this climb, marking nearly two years since her last major ascent.

Integral to her preparation was an acclimatization phase at a 6,400-meter base camp, which is crucial for adjusting to extreme altitudes. This process reflects not only the physical but also the mental discipline required to navigate such rigorous climbing endeavors.

A Shift in Perspective

As she climbed towards Kanchenjunga, Kiani’s experiences shaped her views on competition within mountaineering. She expressed concern that the sport had devolved into a relentless race to the summit, overshadowing opportunities for personal growth and camaraderie. “Unfortunately, the last few years for climbing has turned into this competition to be the best,” she lamented.

This sentiment resonates with many in the climbing community who believe that it’s vital to cherish the learning experiences and connections formed in the mountains.

Training and Preparation

With her sights set on completing her challenge, Kiani now prepares for future climbs, including a return to Shishapangma later this year. This preparation entails rigorous training, which she typically conducts in the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah, as well as strength and cardiovascular workouts in Dubai.

“I hike during peak summer hours because in the mountain, when the sun is out, the UV rays get reflected and we are in down suits which makes it really hot, so the training environment is very useful,” she shared, emphasizing her commitment to balancing safety with effective training methods.

Safety First

Kiani places safety paramount in her climbing philosophy, having experienced incidents such as rock falls and flash floods even in the UAE. “Whether it’s a small mountain or a big mountain, safety is always the priority,” she asserted, showcasing how her outlook has evolved in response to the risks inherent in mountaineering.

With an unwavering dedication to her children and her climbing ambitions, Kiani continues to inspire not just herself but also other aspiring climbers, particularly women in Pakistan. Her journey reflects the determination of those who dare to reach breathtaking heights, balancing dreams with the realities of nature’s challenges.